Saturday, 18 February 2017

English symbolism was shaken to the core by Patrick Grant this season, who showcased an eclectic line-up of smart young gents in tweed and sensible macs for the E Tautz label. At first glance, the affair was more subdued when compared with the vibrant showmanship of Green or Chen Wang, but on closer inspection, things were just as offbeat and jagged as these aforementioned contemporaries. Take for example the classic herringbone trouser, which was radically transformed into a baggy sweat pant with the use of excessive drapery, while pleated slacks appeared to be two sizes too big, giving them a playfully casual mood. Smart blazers were stretched into loose-fitting pieces that flouted every conventional tailoring rule, while cardigan and polo combos with ragged collars were lazily unbuttoned like a teenage tearaway rebelling against his school uniform dress code. This nonchalant aesthetic has redefined what it means to be a smart Savile-Row dressed Brit in a safely tailored two-piece. Forget sticking to rules and mess around instead this season, like a college hipster being effortlessly cool in his grandad’s tweed hand-me-down that doesn’t quite fit. Cutting-loose and caring less is much more fun anyways it seems, according to Mr Grant…J
brit school
e tautz

Saturday, 11 February 2017

Striking visual statements were the order of the day for J.W. Anderson, who gave priority to elongated silhouettes and explosively wide proportions with his range of wrap-around serpent-shaped scarves, colourful crochet knits and blown-up balloon-like sweat pants. The big, bold and brash silhouette was once again emphasised as sweaters swamped models with never-ending sleeves while shirts draped to the knees and coats caressed the body like thick duvet blankets. But the real eye-opener came in the form of cute crochet knitwear featuring quaintly stitched blossoms that would make grandma proud. The charm factor was augmented with a range of kaleidoscopic tees featuring images of the English countryside complete with cornfields and rustic wooden fences. Stained glass panels from a Church window also appeared on dishevelled denims, as the world of the chocolate-box Cotswolds village merged with gritty inner-city East-end streets…J
village life
jw anderson

Saturday, 4 February 2017

Craig Green’s runway offering for aw17 amplified his exaggerated and edgy aesthetic, while perfecting his already well-established approach to fabric deconstruction. His signature oversized silhouette remained as well as his artistic and inventive sense of form; twisted Obi belt ropes wrapped around waistlines in an ode to Japanese Geisha girls while patchworks, quilting and ruffled embellishments morphed standard ready-to-wear looks into instant works of art. But this approach simply paid homage to Green’s regular fashion formula. What didn’t this season was his hyperbolic use of print and his highly conceptual layered looks which inflated his usual clothing contours into Michelin-man proportions. Gigantic coats featuring cut-out panels engulfed model silhouettes while trousers, t-shirts and jumpers were loosely layered up over each-other like a mishmash of wedding-cake ingredients. The use of Middle Eastern magic carpet prints added to this outlandish atmosphere, taking Green’s high-impact looks to a more mystical level…J
middle eastern 
magic carpet ride
craig green

Saturday, 28 January 2017

Chinese fashion graduate Feng Chen Wang seemed to be the ultimate symbol of this new chapter in the London fashion landscape with a show full of fabric manipulation and eccentric proportions. Models walked out onto the cold concrete floors of a cavernous new show-space in the Old Selfridges Hotel wearing a fresh concoction of similarly cutting-edge materials; glistening metallic leathers, plush down fillings and fantastically ruched cottons were blended with high-shine tech fabrics that were warped into a myriad of mind-bending shapes. Coats were transformed into futuristic space-suits featuring detachable panels and slick Superman-style capes, while jackets and jumpers were whipped into asymmetric s alignments that rippled like soft scoops of deliciously ice-cold ice cream. The comic-book yellow track pants and knits accentuated the playful Marvel super hero mood as Madagascan vanilla and cappuccino colours provided a sweeter alternative to some of the darker and more directional looks…J
colour swirl
feng chen wang

Saturday, 31 December 2016

Junya Watanabe looked to more tropic climes for spring summer 17 with a collection focused on exotic birds and flowers. Brightly coloured short-sleeved shirts gave off an exotic Hawaiian vibe with striking floral motifs in cocktail colours, while some designs focused on nature with spritely coloured birds sitting on tree branches. Such psychedelic looks were instantly tamed however by the masculine edge of most models, who sported thick black tattoos and a variety of piercings in eye-catching and obscure places like eyes and the forehead. The style was so typically Watanabe in every possible way: brooding manhood with an ounce of flounce and fantasy. What more could we ask for…? J
take flight
junya watanabe

Saturday, 17 December 2016

White Mountaineering headed down from mountainous Himalayan steeps and into the sub-tropic jungles of India for ss17 with a collection that fused exotic florals with evocative Eastern colours. Jumpers, trousers and shorts were artfully entangled in a mix of vines, lianas and lush Bird of Paradise leaves that elegantly captured the buzz of South Indian rainforest canopies. This image was further invoked with papaya hued cagoules and dense green sweaters, which were accompanied by waterproof anoraks in multi-coloured camouflage. Think berry pink and blue cocktail fabrics with a succulent high-shine sheen.  Rustic washed-out denims, hippie floral cardigans and staple white tees also worked themselves into the heady concoctions with a sort of laid-back nonchalance that would fit in well at a Goan beachside retreat. Bring on the Indian summer…J
indian summer
white mountaineering

Saturday, 10 December 2016

Christopher Kane made Japanese manga a key theme for his ss17 collection along with striking seventies suiting and dishevelled Woodstock haircuts. Radical cartoon graphics dispersed themselves across shirts, bombers and coats in a typically dramatic form, with mischievous Manga dudes shooting guns and playing target practice in a colourful fashion. Chilled Woodstock festival vibes then took over with the baggy jeans and hippy pattern tees, which emerged in exotic California beachside colours like sunblush pink and palm greens. The eclectic nostalgia was augmented further with gaudy tangerine orange plaids and brown blazers. Then the formalwear got in on the act with plaids in chocolate browns and slacks in psychedelic disco checks. The perfect mix between the East and the retro West…J
manga mode
christopher kane